FOUR SACRED BUDDHIST PLACES
After the decline of Indian Buddhism in the 12th
century, most Buddhist sites were destroyed or fell into disrepair. In 1891 the
Sri Lankan Anagarika Dharmapala founded the Mahabodhi Society, which set out to
reclaim Bodh Gaya for Buddhism; this was achieved in 1949. Bodh Gaya today is a
busy centre of pilgrimage with monasteries and meditation centres run by
Tibetan, Burmese, Thai and Vietnamese communities. Visitors will see a remote
descendant of the bodhi tree, the magnificent but greatly restored 7th-century
Mahabodhi temple, the Buddha's stone seat (vajra-asana) and a museum of
Buddhist and Hindu materials.
Sarnath's archeological museum contains the Ashokan
column's famous lion capital (emblem of the modern Indian state) and many other
important works in stone, including a sublime figure of the teaching Buddha
from the Gupta period (5th century). Like Bodh Gaya, Sarnath has a thriving
international Buddhist community.
OTHER BUDDHIST PILGRIMAGE PLACES
The erstwhile capital of the Sakya clan, Kapilvastu was the place where Siddharta Gautam spent early part of his life.
AJANTA CAVES. Designated
World Heritage Site, these caves have seen the rise and spread of bod sects of
Buddhism - Hinayana and Mahayana. The
wild, crescent-shaped ravine pierced with more than twenty Buddhist cave
temples makes this one of India's most spectacular sites. Many genres of early
medieval sacred art, from elaborately carved monastic halls, to sculptures and
wall paintings, are represented here, and prominent among Ajanta's glories are
murals painted in glowing reds, blues and greens. Unique to Indian Buddhist
tradition, the paintings, in high Gupta style, furnish a vision of Mahayana
generosity: a mingling of human, divine and natural forms in a suspension of
warm and life-enhancing interplay.
Most sublime in grace, compassion and serenity is the
incomparable figure of Padmapani, the lotus carrying aspect of the bodhisattva
Avalokiteshvara (cave 1). Scenes from Jataka narratives
adorn the walls of several other monasteries in the complex.
Visitors today, like traditional Buddhist worshippers,
can circumambulate the stupa in a
clockwise direction and contemplate the teeming sculptural forms that fill the
gate posts and their lofty architraves. Jataka narratives, hieratic elephants
and royal lions, Hindu-Buddhist deities and exquisite female nature spirits
crowd every part of the four toranas. The small archeological museum houses
excavated sculptures; other important Sanchi pieces are in museums in Delhi,
London and Los Angeles.
Sravasti. Place of the Twin Miracle,
showing his supernatural abilities in performance of miracles. Sravasti is also
the place where Buddha spent the largest amount of time, being a major city in
ancient India.
Rajgir. Place of the subduing of Nalagiri, the angry
elephant, through friendliness. Rajgir was another major city of ancient India.
Sankassa. Place of the descending to earth
from Tusita heaven
(after a stay of 3 months teaching his mother the Abhidhamma).
Vaishali. Place of receiving an offering of honey from a monkey.
Vaishali was the capital of the Vajjian Republic of ancient India.
Some other
pilgrimage places in India and Nepal connected to the life of Gautama
Buddha are: Pataliputta, Nalanda, Vikramshila, Gaya, Kapilavastu, Kosambi, Amaravati, Nagarjuna
Konda,Sanchi, Varanasi, Kesariya, Devadaha, Pava and Mathura Mandaver(Bijnor U.P), Hapur(ghaziabad
U.P).
Pilgrimage Sites in Other Countries
Svayambhunath and
Bodhnath (Kathmandu)
To commemorate his missionary visit, the emperor Ashoka is said to have built innumerable stupas in Nepal. Two surviving examples, much restored, may derive from the Ashokan period. These are the remarkable Svayambhunath and Bodhnath stupas in Kathmandu. Both stupas share unique Nepalese architectural features. Surmounting the conventional dome is a "steeple" raised on thirteen diminishing tiers to symbolize the thirteen Buddhist heavens. Yet more striking is the design of the square base (harmika) from which the tiers rise. Theharmika is gilded, and a face gazes with immense eyes of inlaid metal and ivory from each side. One explanation for this unique Nepalese iconography is that the eyes suggest a solar cult expressed on some Hindu temples by "sun-faces". A second idea is that the temple represents the "Primal man" (mahapurusha) of early Hinduism. Buddhist theory would suggest that the eyes are a sign of the "all-seeing" Buddha. Visitors are certainly struck by the way in which the eyes follow them as they move round the stupa precincts.
Anuradhapura (Sri Lanka)
Today's Anuradhapura is a huge park containing the ruins of the Great Monastery (Mahavihara) established in 250 BCE on the outskirts of the ancient Singhalese capital. Anuradhapura is connected by an eight-mile (1 3km) pilgrim's path to Mihintale where the missionary Mahinda first preached and where an excavated stupa can be visited. Disinterred earlier this century from the jungle growth of more than a millennium, Anuradhapura's stupas, monastic ruins, sculptures, reservoirs, and a descendant of the original bodhi tree, provide an intense experience of ancient Buddhism. Dominating the site are two vast stupas with characteristic Singhalese "bubble domes". The Thuparama, although much restored, is probably the oldest monument in either India or Sri Lanka. The Ruwanweli Dagoba, is also heavily restored, and is clad in the undecorated white plaster which differentiates Singhalese stupa architecture from the more ornate Indian style.
At Anuradhapura a wonderful convergence of the modern
and the archaic may be experienced. On May and June full moon days, the
festivals of Wesak and Poson celebrate, respectively, the Buddha's birth,
enlightenment and parinirvana, and the introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka.
At such festivals, Anuradhapura is enlivened by hundreds of thousands of
devotees. For the modern day visitor, one of the great pleasures is touring Anuradhapura
on a rented bicycle.
Polonnaruwa (Sri Lanka)
While Anuradhapura evokes the austerity of early Singhalese Buddhism, the later site of Polonnaruwa, wonderfully situated on Lake Topawewa, offers an unparalleled view of medieval Buddhist sculpture and architecture. There the visitor may see the immense recumbent parinirvana Buddha and the 25-foot (7.5m) rock-cut figure of Ananda standing by the head of the Master. There too is the colossal meditating Buddha, and the famous sculptured portrait of the sage-king Parakramabahu overlooking the lake and in contemplation of a manuscript.
Equally dazzling are the early 13th-century monuments
situated on the "Great Quadrangle". These include the classically
proportioned pyramidal brick stupa (Sat
Mahal Pasada), the carved stonework of the "temple of the tooth
relic" (not to be confused with the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy) and the
waving lotus-stem-shaped columns of the Nissanka Lata Mandapaya.
Just as Anuradhapura was abandoned by the 8th century,
Polonnaruwa was finally conquered by the Tamils in the 15th century. The art of
Polonnaruwa represents the final flowering of Singhalese Buddhist art, still
matchlessly preserved in land-locked jungle.
Ayutthaya (Bangkok)
Much important early and medieval Thai architecture was ruined in southeast Asian wars, but impressive 19th and 20th century Buddhist temples abound in Thailand, and in many parts of the country there are lovely archeological sites. In Bangkok, the Wat Phra Kaeo temple, built by King Rama 1 (1782-1809) in the precincts of his Grand Palace, is a spectacular monument to the Theravada Buddhist revival initiated in the 19th century. This temple is a centre of Thailand's religious life, symbolizing the close bond between the sangha (religious community) and state, and houses the "Emerald Buddha", a figurine of national importance to modern Thai people.
The southern Thai Ayutthaya period of the 14th to 18th
centuries brought an influx of new architectural ideas from Sri Lanka. Perhaps
the most beautifully preserved of Thailand's medieval monuments are at the
Ayutthaya historical park, north of Bangkok. Of special interest are stupas with
characteristic Thai "lotus bud" domes, and temple towers showing the
influence both of medieval Khmer design and of "honeycombed" south
Indian shikhara towers.
Angkor Wat (Cambodia)
After a horrifying period of war, the Hindu temple complex of Angkor Wat and the Buddhist Angkor Thom are again accessible. Angkor Thom was the creation of the Khmer "god-king" Jayavarman VII (1181-1219), who converted to Mahayana following the destruction of Angkor by the Cham (Vietnamese) during his father's reign. Jayavarman's Buddhism seems to have been a revised version of the Brahmanical religion which previous Khmer kings had exploited to deify their own persons. The central deity in Jayavarman's religion was Lokeshvara, "Lord of the Worlds", and rebuilding Angkor Thom on a stupendously grand scale, the king created a "Buddhist" city as a monument to Lokeshvara, who was an aspect of Jayavarman's divine self. This convergence of king and deity is still visible in the portrait masks of Jayavarman carved on the four faces of the Bayon temple towers of Angkor Thorn.
After a horrifying period of war, the Hindu temple complex of Angkor Wat and the Buddhist Angkor Thom are again accessible. Angkor Thom was the creation of the Khmer "god-king" Jayavarman VII (1181-1219), who converted to Mahayana following the destruction of Angkor by the Cham (Vietnamese) during his father's reign. Jayavarman's Buddhism seems to have been a revised version of the Brahmanical religion which previous Khmer kings had exploited to deify their own persons. The central deity in Jayavarman's religion was Lokeshvara, "Lord of the Worlds", and rebuilding Angkor Thom on a stupendously grand scale, the king created a "Buddhist" city as a monument to Lokeshvara, who was an aspect of Jayavarman's divine self. This convergence of king and deity is still visible in the portrait masks of Jayavarman carved on the four faces of the Bayon temple towers of Angkor Thorn.
Like Borobudur and many other southeast Asian temples,
Angkor Thom was conceived as a model of the Buddhist universe. At the centre of
an immense complex of shrines is the great Bayon temple with its cluster of five
towers, the tallest of which represents Mount Meru, the cosmic axis. The whole
of Angkor was moated with 100 yards (90m) of water and criss-crossed by a
brilliantly engineered system of canals: the water motif symbolizing the cosmic
ocean and the world's four sacred rivers and - not least - acting as an
irrigation system. Much of the power of Angkor Thom emanates from a profusion
of hybridized.
Hindu-Buddhist iconography, carved in a wild, sweet style on the gates and terraces of Jayavarman's temple-mountain. The god-king's portrait gazing across his shattered domain adds sinister pathos.
Hindu-Buddhist iconography, carved in a wild, sweet style on the gates and terraces of Jayavarman's temple-mountain. The god-king's portrait gazing across his shattered domain adds sinister pathos.
Borobudur
The Borobudur Temple complex is one of the greatest monuments in the world. It is of uncertain age, but thought to have been built between the end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth century A.D. For about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java, then it was lost until its rediscovery in the eighteenth century. The structure, composed of 55,000 square metres of lava-rock is erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole structure is in the form of a lotus, the sacred flower of Buddha.
The Borobudur Temple complex is one of the greatest monuments in the world. It is of uncertain age, but thought to have been built between the end of the seventh and beginning of the eighth century A.D. For about a century and a half it was the spiritual centre of Buddhism in Java, then it was lost until its rediscovery in the eighteenth century. The structure, composed of 55,000 square metres of lava-rock is erected on a hill in the form of a stepped-pyramid of six rectangular storeys, three circular terraces and a central stupa forming the summit. The whole structure is in the form of a lotus, the sacred flower of Buddha.
Besides being the highest symbol of Buddhism, the Borobudur stupa is also a replica of the universe. It symbolises the micro-cosmos, which is divided into three levels, in which man's world of desire is influenced by negative impulses; the middle level, the world in which man has control of his negative impulses and uses his positive impulses; the highest level, in which the world of man is no longer bounded by physical and worldly desire. It is ancient devotional practice to circumambulate around the galleries and terraces always turning to the left and keeping the edifice to the right while either chanting or meditating. In total, Borobudur represents the ten levels of a Bodhisattva's life which a person must develop to become a Buddha or an awakened one.
Lhasa (Tibet)
Visitors may currently enter Tibet from mainland China, Hong Kong or Nepal, if they have a visa for China; the Chinese authorities maintain "closed" areas, but most of the country is accessible. In the holy city of Lhasa, the Dalai Lama's Potala Palace, like many Tibetan monasteries, is now a state museum. Unlike countless shrines and monasteries destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, both the structure and contents of the Potala are preserved. Symbol of the protection of Avalokiteshvara and of the greater Tibetan Buddhist community, the Potala still towers imposingly over Lhasa, and contains countless treasures from the 17th century, including murals, thankas, mandalas, altars, and the famous statue in sandalwood of Padmapani.
The Jokhang monastery, southeast of the Potala, is the
most sacred of all Tibetan pilgrimage sites. Somehow surviving the barbarities
of the Cultural Revolution, the Jokhang retains its famous gilded roof, and the
"Four Deities Radiating Light" may still be seen in their shrine. The
Jokhang remains a living monastery; but it may also be visited, like other
sacred sites, as a "museum".
Yung-kang (Shansi)
and Lung-men (Honan) caves (China)
Yung-kang is one of the most remarkable Buddhist sites for the massive simplicity of its immense rock-carved Buddhas and the delicate ornamentation of its narrative reliefs. Work on the cave shrines was started by the emperor of the first Wei dynasty in AD 460, in response to persecution of Buddhists over the previous twenty years. In the next decades, in the limestone river cliffs at Lung-men (5th-6th centuries), Wei dynasty monumental carving achieved a spiritual and aesthetic perfection never repeated. The giant Buddhas at Yung-kang recall Indian prototypes; at Lung-men early Buddhist and Mahayana motifs converge in a graceful, serene and authentically Chinese idiom.
Nara and Kyoto (Japan)
Nara, the Japanese imperial capital in the 8th century, remains one of the great centres of East Asian Buddhist history. In and around Nara's historic park are pagodas, early Buddhist and Shinto shrines, formal gardens, the important Nara National Museum, and not least the Todai-ji temple with its immense bronze Buddha statue.
The beauty of old Kyoto lies in its numerous Zen
temples dating from the Hieian period, and the famous gardens - "hill gardens"
featuring water, and dry gardens featuring rock and sand - of temples such as
Tenryuji and Ryoan-ji. Zen is a living tradition and Western students are
accepted at some temples in Kyoto as well as in many of the more remote
monasteries in the north of the island.
Other famous
places for Buddhist pilgrimage in various countries include
Ø Afghanistan: the Bamiyan
Buddhas.
Ø Cambodia: Angkor
Thom, Silver Pagoda.
Ø China: Yungang
Grottoes, Longmen
Grottoes. The Four Sacred Mountains namely Wǔtái Shān, Éméi
Shān, Jiǔhuá
Shān, Pǔtuó Shān
, Potala
Palace, Mount Kailash, Lake
Nam-tso
Ø Indonesia: Borobudur, Mendut, Sewu.
Ø Japan: Kyoto, Nara, Shikoku Pilgrimage, Kansai Kannon Pilgrimage
Ø Laos: Luang Prabang.
Ø Myanmar: Bagan, Sagaing Hill, Mandalay Hill, Kyaiktiyo
Pagoda, Shwedagon Pagoda.
Ø Nepal: Boudnanath
Stupa, Swayambhunath, Kapilavastu.
Ø Sri
Lanka: Anuradhapura (the Atamasthana or
'eight places'), Mihintale, Polonnaruwa,
the Temple of the Tooth (Kandy), Sri
Pada.
Ø South Korea: Bulguksa, Three Jewel Temples
Ø Thailand: Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Doi
Suthep, Phra Pathom Chedi, Phra Buddha Chinnarat.
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